Thursday, March 11, 2010

Let them eat steak . . .

It is simply too beautiful a day to cook. High 50s and the bluest sky ever in mid-March? Makes a body want to dance. It's an "assemble the meal" day here in the Northeast Kingdom if there ever was one.
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So, steak salad is on the menu. Simple and satisfying. Get yourself a London broil. Marinate if that's what you're all about, but because you'll be slicing very thinly, it's not all that necessary. Broil to your personal taste of rareness (I'm a 'pink-red' in the middle sort myself), and set aside while you make the sauce.
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And that's easy, too. One part soy sauce, one part good balsamic vinegar, seasoned with a little minced garlic and freshly ground black pepper, plus a splash of hot Chinese chili sauce to add some heat if you like. Needs nothing else, though feel free to doctor with some Worcestershire for a bit more of a traditional taste.
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But let's revisit that 'good' balsamic vinegar. What makes for 'good'? There's lots of rotgut stuff out there. "Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena" and "Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia" are reductions that have been aged for at least a dozen years. Expensive to produce, they are frequently imitated by pucker-producing pretenders that contain colors and thickeners.
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So what's to be done? Shop around and compare. You are more likely to find affordable, good quality balsamic vinegars at your local co-op than grocery store. Find a 'daily use' balsamic for mixing into dressings and sauces. Use the best quality sparingly where it will really count.
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However. My mother had a trick that I will share with you. It won't fool the purists, but it will provide a rich and lovely ingredient to add to dressings and the simple sauce we're pouring on our steak salad today.
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Mom would take a bottle of inexpensive balsamic vinegar, pour it into a saucepan, add a few tablespoons of brown sugar, and let the whole thing reduce until somewhat thickened. The aroma at first will be off-putting, but persevere. Watch carefully and taste-test often, because as you reach the desired thickness, you run the risk of over simmering and burning the reduction. Allow to cool and pour it into a pretty bottle. See what a few spoonfuls do for your regular salad dressing.
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Back to today's steak salad: slice the meat quite thinly against the grain. Assemble the slices over a salad of baby greens, sliced red pepper, mushrooms, onion -- whatever you like best. Toss together the dressing and spoon over the salad. Serve immediately with a hunk of bread and a glass of something luscious and red.
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And that, my friends, is dinner.
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Pictured above: Charlotte-Aglaé d'Orléans, 18th Century duchess of Modena, from whence the loveliest balsamic vinegar comes. Most likely the cup she's raising held something other below the rim, but when you're a beautiful duchess, I suspect life splashes its share of the bitter and the sweet.
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Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Marching On . . .

Upper Valley has given us the nod, and our March issue is going to press! And in its pages, we'll be off to Italy. Pictured, a Sicilian courtyard, courtesy of Carol Egbert, who's taking a break from the end of winter in Vermont to paint and cook and blog from Siracusa . . . those of us who can't jet over can visit via her blog, www.carolegbert.com

A talented artist and home cook, North Country Cooking is pleased to offer her first article in this issue.

We're also happy to feature articles and recipes from Nat Tripp, Joyce Mandeville, Bill Biddle, Ruth Allard, Sue Greenall, Elizabeth Brown, Isobel Swartz, Susan Millar-Williams, and poet Gibbons Ruark.

Thank you, readers, for your patience. Look for the new NCC on the stand and in your mailbox soon.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

On newstands next week . . .

Our March issue of North Country Cooking goes to press next week.
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We'll feature a selection of Italian recipes, sources for the best cheese and beef in the Kingdom, plus the latest from Nat Tripp, Joyce Mandeville, Ruth Allard and Bill Biddle.
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Look for us at Newport Naturals, Ray’s Market, Lake Country Store, Currier’s, Busy Bee, C & C Market, Barton Village Store, Depot Street White Market, Green Mountain Books, The Freighthouse Restaurant, St. Johnsbury Bagel Depot, St. Johnsbury Co-Op, Diamond Hill Store, Hastings Store, and Galaxy Bookstore.
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To subscribe, send $18 for one year, six issues ($9 for seniors) to:
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North Country Cooking
PO Box 24
Lyndonville, VT 05851

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Coming soon . . .

OUR NEXT ISSUE -- in a new, bound, magazine format -- will be out soon!

We've devoted a section to Italian food featuring recipes from television chef and author Nick Stellino and a cookbook roundup, columns from your favorite Northeast Kingdom writers, poet Gib Ruark's take on basil, and information on sources of locally produced artisan cheeses and the finest grass-fed beef.

We hope you'll enjoy our transformation, and we thank you for your patience. Look for us on the stands or in your mailbox in about ten days.

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Dreaming in Italian

OUR FEBRUARY / MARCH ISSUE will signal a transition for us: we're changing our format, shaking up editorial, stretching our wings a bit.
We'll still have some of the best of local doings: we welcome Sal DeMaio to our pages as he recounts his latest cheese making efforts; Charlotte Albright weighs in on whey, too.
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Bill Biddle takes a walkabout and shares his deepest thoughts on meatloaf making. Dan Swainbank takes us to Badger Brook, and Nat Tripp leads us full circle, to the root cellar and beyond, as only he can do. Ruth Allard treats us to five-cent candy and Kreamy Ice Kream at the old general store in Lyndon Center.
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But most of us living in the North Country are products of 'elsewhere,' through heritage or geography or both, and so, with this issue, we begin a series of side trips. The first: Italy. We'll feature recipes from television chef and cookbook author Nick Stellino, poet Gibbons Ruark's take on basil and his stay in Fiesole, family memories from Gianna Fregosi, and my own longing for lemons and the Isle of Capri. February in Vermont, beautiful as it is, fairly calls out for a little fantasy, a little dreaming, a little escape.
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And so, I ask for your patience! The move to a magazine format is taking a little time, and we've got those pesky day jobs to attend. Our next issue should be out in about two weeks. Hope you'll be pleased.
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Above, Marion Brown on the Isle of Capri.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Richard's Vermont Made Game Sauce


NEW FAVORITE THING:
RICHARD'S VERMONT MADE GAME SAUCE.
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Discovered on a recent trip to White's Market right here in the bustling metropolis of Lyndonville, this lively blend of tomato, brown sugar, Worcestershire, peppers, garlic, onions and assorted spices is simply wonderful. Not one to have a lot of game meat hanging around, I've found it makes an ordinary turkey burger a genuine treat.
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Richard's Vermont Made offers a line of marinades as well as hot, barbecue and pasta sauces.
Hunt down a bottle in your local store, or contact them at their site: http://vtmaderichardsauce.com/index.htm