Friday, November 6, 2009

Duck, Duck, Goose




THE INTELLIGENT WOMAN, writes Sarah Field Splint in her instructive 1928 Procter & Gamble book, The Art of Cooking and Serving, "fits her service to her pocketbook and strength." This advice comes in the chapter, "Table Service in the Servantless House."

Strangely, I find myself in that category, having foolishly allowed my children to grow up and explore lives of their own, and while the dogs are well-meaning, the lack of opposable thumbs does limit their dexterity. And they can never seem to remember on which side of the plate the salad fork should rest.

But I digress. Ms. Splint, in her inimitable wisdom, offers a variety of menus for those households "with a maid" and those without, suggests that cold fried chicken and watercress sandwiches make in part a lovely picnic-motor lunch, and apparently feels that no "occasion" is celebrated adequately without oysters on the half-shell.

Those oysters appear in her Christmas menu, which, we should add, does not come with a note on whether it's something a "servantless" hostess should attempt. Submitted for your approval, then, is what you might have served on Christmas Day, had you been at work in the kitchen, or supervising your staff, 90 years ago:




Oysters on the Half-Shell


Stuffed Celery, Ripe Olives


Cream of Mushroom Soup


Bread Sticks


Roast Duck or Goose, Fried Apples


Glace Sweet Potatoes, Creamed Cauliflower


Dinner Rolls, Currant Jelly


Hearts of Lettuce Salad


Mince Pie, French Ice Cream


Nuts, Mints


Coffee




What a lovely menu. Not a spiral-cut ham in sight. While I've never served duck or goose on Christmas Day myself, I do believe this season I will try. Maybe a tradition will be born.


Confidential to Joyce M -- the confit was utterly delicious. Many thanks.






3 comments:

Palinurus on Bainbridge said...

Why does the thought of cooking a goose (even more so a duck) seem so intimidating?

Denise Brown said...

It's the fat, I suspect. Or simply fear of the fowl unknown? I haven't cooked a goose in a dozen years (well, there's a sad admission). Will write up a recipe soon. Thank you for your post, Palinurus on Bainbridge . . .

Denise Brown said...

It was so good to see your photos on Flickr, to see Kenny after all these years. He is still his gorgeous self. Very best to you . . . DB